Nothing compares to that rush you get when catching a wave.
The moment is instantaneous, fleeting.
But at the same time, life almost freezes in frame and the seconds crawl by in slow- motion.
You feel like you are being suspended in time and space.
Unreal.
And each wave is unique unto itself - unlike any wave before it or any wave after it.
They come, effortlessly almost automatically.
Willed into being by the Earth and the Moon. In that way, each wave is alive.
As natural and beautiful as the man, woman, girl, or boy riding it.
Respect.
...
Da kine small kine local legend, Buttons Kaluhiokalani. He'e nalu Hawaiian style!
[Music by Humble Soul - Push I Down]
North Shore Surf Lessons @ Buttons Surf School:
buttonssurfschool.com/
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